Last spring, Andy and I went to Barcelona, Spain and loved it. The sun, the color, the architecture. The food, the drink, the Mediterranean Sea. It was all good, especially after the dark and dreary winter in London. When thinking of where we might go this December for a bit of sun, we decided to return to Spain spending a few days each in Seville and Granada.
Seville was beautiful. Not as warm as we would have liked, but nice enough to be outside both day and night – with a jacket. We managed to spend almost an entire day at the Real Alcazar. https://www.alcazarsevilla.org/en/ It was in the mid-1200’s that the location became a royal residence that is still in use today. We did a tour of the actual rooms still in use, but no photography is allowed. A lot has happened in the meantime as the area switched from a Moorish center to a part of Catholic Castile. The compound has been expanded multiple times reflecting the change in leadership. The buildings and gardens are unlike any castle or grounds to be found elsewhere in Europe.
It was on a tour of the Jewish Quarter that the guide used the phrase: “Our history is difficult, but we still must share it”. We, of course, knew of the Spanish Inquisition; but to see the buildings and hear the stories of the lives lost and affected is a whole other thing. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanish_Inquisition
Our time in Seville included an evening of Spanish guitar music provided in the central garden courtyard of our hotel, so nice to be that close to our room. The following evening, we went to a Flamenco dance center to have an evening of Flamenco. We may have benefited from a little explanation of the dance and music, but think we figured out on our own that someone’s heart was broken and that the only way to work this out is to dance with rhythmic stomping to precise guitar harmonies. Our table was quite close to the stage where we collected evidence of the hard-stepping dance in the assortment of wood chips flying from the dance stage. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flamenco
It was then on to Granada. Granada is home to the Alhambra, one of the most visited sites in the world. December is a good time to visit; it was not hot and while busy, it was not too crowded. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alhambra A site that has been a royal center since Roman times, it was here that Ferdinand and Isabella gave authorization to Columbus to find an alternative route to China. The site itself reflecting Roman, Moorish and Christian rulers. The history is difficult. It was also Ferdinand and Isabella who created the Spanish Inquisition which would report to them, the Crown, as apposed to the Pope. They needed loyalty for their newly combined kingdom, they needed money; it was the Jewish communities of Spain that paid that price.
Aside from the painful parts of this difficult history, the time spent in Spain was wonderful. The weather was fine, the food was great, the wine was excellent. In this land of Christians, we also saw whole Christmas markets dedicated to the selling of manger scene materials. New styles, traditional and vintage; from very small to almost life-sized, there were Mary, Joseph, Jesus, the wise men, camels, chickens, hay, pottery, and water features; several even included little tiny menorahs. And, for those of us who love lighting displays; Granada at Christmas is the place to be. The shopping streets compete for the most beautiful overhead street displays. It is something to see and we are glad to have been there to see it.
The history is difficult, but it must be shared.
Timely! Today’s terrible news combined with the uptick of violence toward us is chilling. Thank you, this was interesting and informative.
We have witnessed the evidence of Europe’s long and difficult history. Our concern remains that those who do not know their history are likely to repeat it.