Blog 59 – Old professors never die – they just lose their faculties

But they continue to write in their blog none-the-less

Taking up then on the theme of Amsterdam parks, this blog topic is Westerpark. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westerpark_(park)) Watch this video for a fun introduction to the park and the neighbourhood named for it. Only 3 minutes and it is in English too. https://youtu.be/sNKh3CBP0Ic

Art object at the main canal entrance to Westerpark

Let us start with a little history: The name itself is taken from the location of the park, as it sits on the west side of central Amsterdam. The original Westerplantsoen (Western Garden), was dedicated in 1845 as the first public park for the city of Amsterdam. The new park was popular, but short-lived as it was removed for the extension of railroads and canals in 1869. In 1890 the city opened the new Westerpark on 5.63 hectares (roughly 14 acres). The new park is bound by the Westerkanaal on the east end, by the Haarlemmertrekvaart canal spanned by the Mirakelbrug (bridge) on the south and by the new gas works factory on its west. Numerous railroad lines established the border to the north.

Fast-forward a hundred years; the park remains popular, but the gas factory has closed, leaving beautiful brick buildings, in the Dutch Renaissance Style, and acres of toxic grounds. Any plans to convert the site to housing must be scrapped. It is an American landscape architect, Kathryn Gustafson, who proposes integrating the buildings into the park as a cultural centre; creating cafes, shops, and venues paired with open area pools and polders.  (http://www.gp-b.com/cultuurpark-westergasfabriek)  The Culture Park Westergasfabriek is opened in 2003 and becomes an instant hit. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westergasfabriek)

One of many paths leading from the original park area into the Westergasfabriek

The first time we went to Westerpark and I saw the buildings, I thought that there had been a World’s Fair type of exposition here and that these buildings were remaining – a bit like Balboa Park in San Diego or Fair Park in Dallas, a fair site turned into a public gathering place. The last thing to occur to me was the remains of a gas factory. Previous to this experience, I’m not sure I thought much about making gas on such a large scale – but you can, from coal. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coal_gas) Of course, all festivals have been cancelled since we have been here, and the restaurants are only takeaway; yet it remains an interesting place for a walk or a run – or a picnic.

Are you looking for a longer running/walking loop than Vondelpark offers at about 2.2 miles? Then, Westerpark may be the answer. To encircle the entire area currently designated as Westerpark, you will cover a little over 3.5 miles. And that assumes that you do not get lost in the ‘’allotments’’ as I did the first time, in which case it is more like 6 miles. (bring water).

Speaking of the allotments; these were new to me too. In researching this blog entry I’ve seen them referred to as ‘little houses’, ‘nature trails’, and the ‘garden area’, actually, all are correct. These are community garden plots developed to a genuinely nice level including sheds, garden houses, and art and of course they are bordered by canals. Secrets hiding in plain sight. (https://gardentravelhub.com/amsterdams-secret-enchanted-forest-gardens/) There are two separate, but essentially continuous allotment gardens connected to Westerpark; Tuinpark Nut and Genoegen (http://www.nutengenoegen.amsterdam/) and the Sloterdijkermeer (https://sloterdijkermeer.nl/15v1/) Open March till October, this is a lovely place to beat the heat and walk relatively uninterrupted as motorized vehicles are not allowed and even bikes are discouraged.

Once we leave the secret gardens, it’s time to see what else might be hidden in plain sight in the rest of the park. This is Amsterdam, there must be more art in the park. Yes, there is. https://archive.acitymadebypeople.com/journal/amsterdam-westerpark-art

This is exhausting, let’s find one of the restaurants or cafes.

With this we have covered the main aspects of Westerpark; the history, trails, allotments, art, and cafes. But there is more here. Most maps show the park area as roughly rectangular bordered by canals and train tracks – this is the way I have presented the park to you – so far. But a few maps show the park extending north to the other side of the tracks. It is here that you will find Het Woeste Westen.  (https://www.woestewesten.nl/) A large, hands-on, mostly kids place “to play with sand and water, sail on a raft, catch aquatic creatures, play in a flowing stream, stroll through reeds and bushes or just enjoy nature in silence.” And, learn to ride horses, too. I don’t like to get dirty myself, but I do love hearing the children laugh as they do.

It is in this northern section that you will find some of the best secrets yet – St. Barbara’s Cemetery. (https://stbarbara-amsterdam.nl/) It is of note that the cemetery was started by the Catholic church, 1893, but it is nondenominational in who it accepts for burial. Secrets in a cemetery – you may be thinking I really have lost my faculties; but wait. On your own you can visit the cemetery via the 3-D tour to see how beautifully the aisles and plots are laid out and fenced – so organized; (https://stbarbara-amsterdam.nl/rondleiding) but what you can’t see via this tour and which I have found almost no reference to in online searches, are some of the most creative headstones and memorials I have seen in many cemetery visits. As I write this, I do not know if these types of memorials are typical of just this location, or Amsterdam, or maybe even Netherlands. I do know, that I need to find out more about thinking outside the final resting place box for when I truly have lost all my faculties.

Poetry, sculpture, mosaics, one-liners; they appear fitting tributes to some very interesting people.